Cruise 2026/27

28 April 2026

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Where It All Began…CHANEL Returns to Biarritz


CHANEL presented its Cruise 2026/27 collection in Biarritz and the choice of location is anything but coincidental. The storied coastal town was where Gabrielle Chanel opened her first couture house in 1915, following the success of her Deauville boutique. In the late 1910s, Biarritz bustled with women leading dual lifestyles – energetic sporting activities by day and elegant social engagements by night. This rhythm demanded clothing that could transition effortlessly, and Chanel introduced a collection tailored for women spending their summers in the resort town. 


CHANEL’s decision to return to the town foundational to its identity, sends a clear message: that the future of the house will continue to be written in dialogue with its origins. And that dialogue is now in the hands of Matthieu Blazy. This is his first Cruise, and fifth overall, runway collection for the House.

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Blazy’s own design language suggests a natural return to the founding tension Biarritz once inspired: the idea that lifestyle and couture could coexist. Models in silhouettes that breathed with the ocean and garments that move between morning surf and evening aperitif walked the beige carpeted runway overlooking the sea with the same ease Gabrielle Chanel once dressed women for. The quarter-zip sailor sweater, the two piece set, the full, fluid skirt – all reinvented through Blazy’s hand. 


The opening look – a little black dress – was fashioned in homage to the 100 year anniversary of CHANEL’s iconic “Ford” LBD introduced in 1926. It was accompanied by a black bag shaped as a bow with long, flowing sashes – a reference to the original dress which featured a bow on the back of the dress. 

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Playful elements in the form of scalloped seashell earrings, coral detailing and lattice weaving added dimension and joy to the collection. Swimsuits worn under skirts or pants with a jacket overtop reinforced the idea of dressing for a well-rounded day, providing a woman with freedom and flexibility. The seaside references did not stop there – rubber boots, swim caps, sea creatures and shimmering sequins were woven throughout.

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The interlocking CC was on display more so in this collection than any other we have seen from Blazy so far. But not in a typical way. Used more in the construction of the silhouette or following the flow of the material – it was clearly visible without shouting.

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Image Credit: CHANEL

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Blazy’s continuous curiosity and inspiration from Coco is always interesting. In reading a quote from Chanel – “I love to read newspapers, like men” – he was inspired to create three separate, distinct newsprint pieces. Not a first for fashion, but a first for CHANEL. 

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Now onto the plethora of bags. From clutches to floor length beach bags and from leather to raffia, the options were endless. Oversized bags continue to be on trend, which is most appropriate for a seaside vacation or day spent at the beach – including a very special, large crocodile vanity case.

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To close, it seemed as if two mermaids acquired legs and walked the runway in very couture-esque pieces. Embroidered in shimmering, iridescent scales – one in fiery orange, the other in shades of turquoise. They were truly beautiful.  

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Image Credit: CHANEL

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​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Biarritz was the place that gave Chanel her freedom. A century on, it may just be the place for Blazy to define his.

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