10 October 2025
The most anticipated debut of the season! When CHANEL announced in December 2024 that Matthieu Blazy would become its new creative director, it marked a turning point for one of the largest names in fashion history. CHANEL has been in the fashion business for over 100 years, but only three people have ever held the designer title. “In what direction will Matthieu Blazy take the house?”, was the question everyone was asking. And now, we have our answer…
For his debut collection at CHANEL as “Artistic Director of Fashion Activities”, Matthieu Blazy ignited a unanimous, instant response among fashion insiders: “CHANEL IS BACK. FASHION IS BACK”. For those of us unwavering Chanel-istas, for whom CHANEL has never “left”, it took some more time to process.
The set was stunning, the soundtrack was wonderful, the guest list was extensive! The anticipation was high and I didn’t know what to expect but as I watched, I couldn’t help but feel slight disappointment in the overall look of the collection. That was my initial reaction. However, upon pouring over detailed photos , reviews, insights, and interviews with Matthieu himself – explaining his influence and his references – I have come to change my mind.
While it does not reflect the CHANEL that we have been accustomed to for the past 40 years, there is something undeniably CHANEL about it. As we all know, “All roads at CHANEL lead back to Coco”. There is no denying that Matthieu‘s influence was deeply rooted in Coco Chanel‘s design principles and aesthetic. He took common menswear items and made them more feminine. He focussed on the comfort and ability to move and live in the clothes that you’re wearing. From working with Charvet on button down shirts because it was the label the men in Chanel’s life wore, to showing ribbed undergarments beneath low slung skirts as a nod to Chanel’s revolutionary use of jersey at a time when the material was used only for men’s underwear. It was definitely modern and fresh. It wasn’t Karl’s CHANEL, but it was Gabrielle’s CHANEL.
While I would have preferred to see more brights – especially considering that it was a Spring/Summer collection – I did appreciate the discreet logos and the more quiet inclusion of the house codes (small interlocking CC’s on buttons, leather chain straps on shirt hems, wheat sheaf motifs, etc). In Matthieu’s words, “The good thing with the codes of CHANEL is that you can reduce them and they still look like CHANEL.”
I can’t help but wonder where we go from here. I hope there is a little more balance between the CHANEL that we have known and this new direction. We shall see what the Métiers d’Art collection brings in December – but please, oh please, do not do that to the 2.55 ever again (iykyk).
