29 July 2025
The House of CHANEL is deeply rooted in French luxury and elegance. While it is known for its sophisticated, timeless designs, Western influences and elements – particularly those from American and equestrian cultures – have continually found a place in CHANEL’s collections. From Coco Chanel’s early inspirations to Karl Lagerfeld’s reinterpretations and Virgine Viard’s modern updates, “cowboy chic” has formed part of the CHANEL aesthetic.
Coco Chanel was known for her revolutionary approach to fashion, breaking free from restrictive corsets and introducing comfortable yet stylish clothing for women. A major influence on her designs derived from her relationship with the Duke of Westminster. Spending time with him in the English countryside, she was exposed to classic British tweeds, wools and equestrian fashion. This led to pieces featuring structured silhouettes and masculine tailoring, such as her famous tweed suits, reflecting Western fashion at that time.
While she was a Parisian at heart, Parisians did not praise her comeback collection in 1954. However, the Americans did. In 1957, Stanley Marcus invited Chanel to Dallas, Texas to receive the Neiman Marcus Award for “Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion”. During her visit, she was treated to a ranch-style BBQ (which she apparently was not a fan of) and a fashion show inspired cattle walk, complete with a cow in pearls (which she apparently enjoyed). In Paul Morand’s book, The Allure of Chanel, Chanel is quoted as saying, “I admire and love America. It’s where I made my fortune.”
Benoît Peverelli
Benoît Peverelli
Fifty-six years later, Karl Lagerfeld would receive the same recognition when he was presented with the Neiman Marcus Award for “Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion” in 2013. Upon receiving news that he would be the recipient of the award that year, Karl had the genius idea of dedicating the CHANEL Métiers d’Art 2014 collection to “cowboy culture” and staging the show in Dallas the day before he received the award. The collection was entitled “Back in Dallas” as a homage to this encapsulating moment. Of the collection, he said: “…it’s the idea of Texas, but not commonplace Texas. I tried to avoid cheerleaders and the look of Hollywood movies with John Wayne – I have nothing against them, but this is more romantic…it’s like Western films of the silent era, when they were much more poetic. I wanted a poetic touch.” The collection featured fringed jackets, prairie dresses, wide-brimmed hats, and rugged boots—all reimagined with CHANEL’s signature elegance. The fusion of Parisian chic with Wild West aesthetics created a unique balance between ruggedness and refinement.
However, this wasn’t the first time Lagerfeld did “Cowboy Coco”. He frequently used denim, leather, and Western-inspired embroidery in CHANEL’s Ready-to-Wear collections, giving a nod to American fashion staples. His ability to blend CHANEL’s classic sophistication with rebellious Western elements kept the brand fresh and relevant in the modern era.
While Lagerfeld embraced dramatic cowboy motifs, Virginie Viard subtly integrated Western elements into CHANEL’s collections with a softer, more feminine touch. High boots, belted coats, and stetson hats are all elements reminiscent of equestrian fashion. These details continue the legacy of Coco Chanel’s early influences while adapting to contemporary fashion trends.
CHANEL’s ability to blend Western influences with Parisian style has played a crucial role in the brand’s global appeal. By embracing the practicality and rugged elegance of Western styles while maintaining its luxurious identity, CHANEL proves that fashion is not confined by borders—it is a global dialogue of influences that evolve over time.
As CHANEL moves forward with Matthieu Blazy taking over the creative reins, it will be fascinating to see how he continues to reinterpret Western aesthetics while staying true to CHANEL’s heritage of sophistication and innovation.
